Day 21

The day began with disappointments. I had seen a sign at the market in Gualala yesterday about California Coastal Cleanup day, which was to happen today all over California including Gualala. In the morning, we rode out to the beach where it was supposed to happen, but found no one there. I was bummed about that-- it would have been great to participate and talk to local folks. Then, a friend I had been hoping to stay with that night had something come up and couldn't host us. So the day looked different than I had imagined when walking up. But, bike- toting iis all about being flexible, and it's good to practice some non-attachment to our plans. We'r made up for it ny getting some stellar produce at the farmer's market in town.

The sun was already hot when we rode out of town and ir just kept getting hotter. If it wasn't for ther ocean breeze I might have melted and fused with my bike frame. There were few towns along our route, and we mostly rode through cattle country on a winding road that working its way along the cliffs, rising higher and higher until we were far above the water. The road was exciting; doing the same
dahses inland around drainages, so many that we have gotten much better at carving those teardrop curves and keeping our momentum up the other side.

The scenery here is so in-your-face beautiful, it is easy to forget about it. After three days straight of riding the 1 down the coast, I almost stop noticing how stunning it is. In places where the landscape is more subtle, the beauty of it often creeps up on you, and become clearer after you stop focusing on it. It's quite the opposite here and I have to remind myself to take it all in and recognize what a unique and ever-change coastline this one is.

About halfway through the day, perhaps around Timber Cove, cow country started to turn into nice homes and restaurants, spaced out along the water. The influence of San Francisco, I think, is just beginning to be felt. We are within 2 days ride now, and it's going to be a little complicated to infiltrate, but anticipation builds...

We noticed today how we ride faster when the two of us ride together. When I'm behind Lluc, I think "Man, he's getting ahead, I'd better catch up." Then, when I'm in front I think "Man, he's right behind me, I'd better pick it up." It's mostly subconscious, but it means we really move fast together.

At days end we found ourselves in Bodega Bay, camping in the park on the dunes just North of town. We found ourselves a nice little nook in the Eucalyptus grove by the hiker/biker camp, filled with the same group of rotating faces we've been seeing on the road for a week now. A lot of foreigners tonight: Belgians, Germans, and French. We talk politics and culture over a bonfire after dark.

Lluc and I took a walk to the beach to take it all in before achieving new culinary heights over the camp stove: tonight's dinner may have been the best yet: Quinoa with feta cheese, chick peas, pitted greek olives in olive oil, and lemon cucumbers from the farmer's market. Man alive, it was something else.

On the beach we spoke of the chapters of our journey so far. It feels as though we may be approaching the end of 'Book One.'