Day 5
What a day. It will be one we remember, even though they all start to blur into one another. Our first full sunny day. Our last full day in Washington. The first day that really kicked our butts.
The thing about Southwestern Washington's coastline, is it's full on inlets. Several large ones are obvious on the map: around Aberdeen (where the Hoquiam river drains), Raymond (where the Wilapa river outflows), and by Astoria (which is the mouth of the Columbia). Even though as the crow flies, our distance today was only 40 miles or so, navigating around the Wilapa bay made our mileage closer to 73 or 74. A good 10 miles more than anything we've done up to this point (and a personal record for Lluc), but of all days to do it, today was perfect: Blue skies, good pavement, fairly flat, and very scenic.
We began our day with millepieds. A dew so heavy it seemed like a light rain had fallen invited a horde of creepy-crawlies into my tent somehow. They were harmless but I was a little startled. Things took a while to dry out before we could pack up (Lluc and I both adding weight to our rigs, now almost fully loaded), so we left just before 10. The moms accompanied us on our morning ride from Grayland, down through Dexter-by-the-sea and Tokeland, near the Shoalwater Bay Reservation. We knew the way would be pretty because we had made a excursion to the Tokeland Hotel the night before-- a friend of Carla's runs the place so we had to stop through. A cozy old establishment with fine fare. Don't forget to come back to "Tokefest"-- the cannabis welness convention held there every year.
The road opened up to the large midats of Wilapa Bay where we saw lots of folks in rubber boots happily clamming away. It seems to be such a pastime here, one home pronounced itself "Clamelot." Winding around the shoreline, we eventually found ourselves on Raymond, where we stopped for a rest on Robert Hoffer park, which we soon renamed "BOB HOFFA".
Just before Raymond, we found wild peas blooming on the riverside. Kinda tasty.
Knowing miles to be made, we hopped back on the 101 only to find a lovely separated bike path going our direction. A real treat. It left us in South Bend, which looked like an enjoyable place, and boasted a hotel on the hillside that liiked like a cross between the Capitol building and a giant juicer. Moving too quickly to snap a photo... you'll have to look it up.
There was a long stretch after South Bend on which there was very few distractions. I had expected to see some civilization in Bruceport at Nemah, both of which seem to have shrunk to nothing more than a sign post. Consequently, we cruised at a good clip, for nearly 25 miles until we came across a broken down house, where we thought we might take a rest.
There were a number of signifigant rolling hills in this section, which we hit with gusto, that finally receeded by the Wilapa Wildlife Refuge, which impressed both of us. Territory like this makes it a pleasure to ride, even if you're already dog-tired. Lioks like a splendid place to canoe also. We rode through a long, flat marsh with skeleton trees covered in moss of both sides, before mounting a ghastly hill that left us gasping-- for air and also at a glumpse of breaking surf in the distance. Down the grade, around a corner and into Ilwaco we rode. From there it was just a few miles more to our destination: Cape Disappointment.
It was the golden hour and though everything was aglow, we were getting anxious for camp. Turns out the last 2 miles to get to the cape were some of the hilliest of the whole day. So tired and through with it, we were barking like dogs to eachother expressing our mutual discontent. Finally, we found the camp where moms had already set up. We had hardly put the bikes down before running out to the sand. What a thing to come back to day after day. It made it all worth it.
This beach, like the others in texture, had a dramatic cliff that dove into the wave, cauaing the crashing waves to explode with even more fervor. The carved wholes in the rock drew out attention and we watched, fixated as the waves worked thier way through the narrow spaces.
A good stretch was in order.
Not too long after, the sun began to fall behind the waves and we said our silent goodbyes. Meanwhile, a thurnderstorm broke over Oregon, to the South.
Our last night with the moms. Tomorrow we are self-supported. We allowed ourselves to be pampered one more night.
We agree this place is so spectacular, we will take the morning to explore. Oregon can wait.
The thing about Southwestern Washington's coastline, is it's full on inlets. Several large ones are obvious on the map: around Aberdeen (where the Hoquiam river drains), Raymond (where the Wilapa river outflows), and by Astoria (which is the mouth of the Columbia). Even though as the crow flies, our distance today was only 40 miles or so, navigating around the Wilapa bay made our mileage closer to 73 or 74. A good 10 miles more than anything we've done up to this point (and a personal record for Lluc), but of all days to do it, today was perfect: Blue skies, good pavement, fairly flat, and very scenic.
We began our day with millepieds. A dew so heavy it seemed like a light rain had fallen invited a horde of creepy-crawlies into my tent somehow. They were harmless but I was a little startled. Things took a while to dry out before we could pack up (Lluc and I both adding weight to our rigs, now almost fully loaded), so we left just before 10. The moms accompanied us on our morning ride from Grayland, down through Dexter-by-the-sea and Tokeland, near the Shoalwater Bay Reservation. We knew the way would be pretty because we had made a excursion to the Tokeland Hotel the night before-- a friend of Carla's runs the place so we had to stop through. A cozy old establishment with fine fare. Don't forget to come back to "Tokefest"-- the cannabis welness convention held there every year.
The road opened up to the large midats of Wilapa Bay where we saw lots of folks in rubber boots happily clamming away. It seems to be such a pastime here, one home pronounced itself "Clamelot." Winding around the shoreline, we eventually found ourselves on Raymond, where we stopped for a rest on Robert Hoffer park, which we soon renamed "BOB HOFFA".
Just before Raymond, we found wild peas blooming on the riverside. Kinda tasty.
Knowing miles to be made, we hopped back on the 101 only to find a lovely separated bike path going our direction. A real treat. It left us in South Bend, which looked like an enjoyable place, and boasted a hotel on the hillside that liiked like a cross between the Capitol building and a giant juicer. Moving too quickly to snap a photo... you'll have to look it up.
There was a long stretch after South Bend on which there was very few distractions. I had expected to see some civilization in Bruceport at Nemah, both of which seem to have shrunk to nothing more than a sign post. Consequently, we cruised at a good clip, for nearly 25 miles until we came across a broken down house, where we thought we might take a rest.
There were a number of signifigant rolling hills in this section, which we hit with gusto, that finally receeded by the Wilapa Wildlife Refuge, which impressed both of us. Territory like this makes it a pleasure to ride, even if you're already dog-tired. Lioks like a splendid place to canoe also. We rode through a long, flat marsh with skeleton trees covered in moss of both sides, before mounting a ghastly hill that left us gasping-- for air and also at a glumpse of breaking surf in the distance. Down the grade, around a corner and into Ilwaco we rode. From there it was just a few miles more to our destination: Cape Disappointment.
It was the golden hour and though everything was aglow, we were getting anxious for camp. Turns out the last 2 miles to get to the cape were some of the hilliest of the whole day. So tired and through with it, we were barking like dogs to eachother expressing our mutual discontent. Finally, we found the camp where moms had already set up. We had hardly put the bikes down before running out to the sand. What a thing to come back to day after day. It made it all worth it.
This beach, like the others in texture, had a dramatic cliff that dove into the wave, cauaing the crashing waves to explode with even more fervor. The carved wholes in the rock drew out attention and we watched, fixated as the waves worked thier way through the narrow spaces.
A good stretch was in order.
Not too long after, the sun began to fall behind the waves and we said our silent goodbyes. Meanwhile, a thurnderstorm broke over Oregon, to the South.
Our last night with the moms. Tomorrow we are self-supported. We allowed ourselves to be pampered one more night.
We agree this place is so spectacular, we will take the morning to explore. Oregon can wait.
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